The Provocateur with Mass Appeal: How Rankin Became One of My Greatest Photographic Influences
- Nick Johnson
- Jun 2
- 5 min read
In fashion and portrait photography, few artists have managed to balance cultural edge with mainstream reach quite like Rankin. I first encountered his work in the early 2000s in the form of bold portraits of musical artists I was also discovering at the same time. That initial introduction quickly led me down a rabbit hole of his fashion and editorial work, revealing a photographer whose vision has consistently shaped and challenged the way I see style, beauty and personality.
A First Encounter: Music Meets Image
My first exposure to Rankin’s work came through his unforgettable portraits of pop artists like Robbie Williams, Eminem, and Natalie Imbruglia—each one capturing a moment of early-2000s music culture with both boldness and intimacy.
Rankin’s photographs of Robbie Williams in particular had an unfiltered swagger—brimming with charisma, but tinged with something raw and almost dangerous. Whether Robbie was staring down the lens with mischief or leaning into vulnerability, Rankin stripped back the pop veneer and revealed the man underneath the persona.
His 2002 shoot with Eminem for Blender magazine presented the rapper in vivid color, emphasizing his intense gaze and raw energy. The images stripped away distractions, focusing solely on the artist's persona, and exemplified Rankin's ability to capture the essence of his subjects.
Then there was Natalie Imbruglia whose quiet strength and effortless beauty were brought to life in Rankins’ images. His work with her helped cement her image as more than just a one-hit wonder; he captured her as an emotive, high-fashion subject. The photographs feel intimate yet composed, balancing softness with presence in a way that became something of a Rankin signature.
Rankins’ images weren’t just promotional photos they were cultural artifacts. Rankin’s lens transformed music icons into visual legends, and it was through these very images that I was pulled into his world. From there, I quickly found his fashion work, and that’s where everything changed for me.
Fashion with Teeth
Rankin’s fashion work doesn’t whisper. It speaks loud and clear, and it helped redefine what fashion imagery looked like in the early 2000s. Long before it was the norm for celebrities to dominate fashion covers and campaigns, Rankin was one of the photographers blurring the lines between pop culture and high fashion. His editorial work for Dazed & Confused, i-D, and Vogue helped usher in a new era where the cool factor of a celebrity could elevate a fashion spread just as much as the clothes themselves.
In campaigns for brands like Rimmel London, Diesel, and L’Oréal, Rankin brought his signature blend of sex appeal, irreverence, and raw personality. His work with Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen in the late ’90s and early 2000s stood out for being less about unattainable beauty and more about attitude—fashion with a punk edge. But just as often, Rankin turned his lens toward celebrities: Madonna, Heidi Klum, Björk, Lily Allen, and even The Spice Girls. His ability to balance glamour and grit made him the perfect fit for stars who wanted to look both iconic and real.
He was instrumental in shifting the fashion industry’s lens away from strictly working with anonymous models toward embracing pop culture figures. It wasn’t just about what someone was wearing—it was about who they were and how they wore it. And Rankin knew how to photograph both.
One of his most visually ambitious fashion projects was the 2011 Rolls-Royce “Spirit of Ecstasy” campaign, which reimagined the iconic hood ornament through a series of conceptual portraits featuring models styled in latex, chrome, feathers, and gold leaf. It was high art meets high fashion in a bold, unapologetic, luxurious and entirely modern way. The campaign was a reminder that even legacy brands could be reinterpreted through a contemporary, provocative lens and Rankin was the ideal artist to do it.
Rather than just showcase clothing, Rankin’s images provoke. They make you feel something. Sometimes shock, sometimes desire, sometimes a sense of being in on the joke. That’s why his fashion work continues to resonate and has created a legacy that still shapes how fashion is shot today.
Rankin’s style is instantly recognizable. There’s a graphic boldness in his use of color, an expressive quality in his lighting, and a razor-sharp instinct for capturing micro-emotions - those fleeting facial expressions that say more than a pose ever could. This may be one of the biggest areas in which Rankin has inspired my own work - the need to recognize that decisive moment in a subjects eyes that means THAT is the time to press the shutter button. His work often plays with eye contact; the gaze in his portraits is direct, unflinching, sometimes confrontational, always compelling. And yet, despite the often-provocative nature of his subjects, there is an accessibility to his imagery that makes the viewer feel invited rather than intimidated.
Whether he’s shooting a supermodel, a pop icon, or an unknown face, Rankin brings a sense of urgency and truth to the image. That’s a rare skill, and it’s one I strive to emulate in my own work.
The Rankin Legacy: Past, Present, and Influence
Rankin’s contributions go far beyond photography. He’s a publisher, filmmaker, and cultural force. From Dazed to Hunger Magazine, from high fashion campaigns to awareness-raising portraits for HIV/AIDS charities and breast cancer initiatives, he’s used his lens to elevate not just brands but issues. His celebrity portraits of everyone from Kate Moss to the Queen of England are as influential as his campaigns.
Even now, Rankin remains relevant and prolific. His recent works have included directing videos, creating editorial content for luxury fashion houses, and launching socially conscious photography initiatives. He continues to collaborate with younger creatives and push forward-thinking narratives.
Personal Impact
As a fashion and portrait photographer myself, Rankin’s influence is foundational. His work taught me that imagery can be both artful and commercial, both cheeky and serious, both intimate and iconic. He proved that you don’t have to choose between mass appeal and authenticity. Your voice as a photographer can be loud, stylish, and still have something real to say.
Rankin doesn’t just take pictures. He sets the tone. He creates conversation. And for those of us who were paying attention when his work first broke through, he permanently raised the bar.
Who are some artists who caused you to stop in your tracks? Who set the bar for you? Comment below and let me know!
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